Surfing...you watch others do it and it looks so easy! The guys ride out on a board, then sit there and wait for the right wave to come along. Once they see the right wave, they paddle the board, and as the wave begins to break, it carries them along until there is nothing left to ride. So, thinking that it was an easy task, we decided to take on the challenge of surfing. Since we are new at the sport, body surfing seemed to be the best technique for us. We bought our cheap $12 boards and headed into the surf. We rode out far enough that the surf wasn't breaking and waited for the perfect wave.
We were there only a moment and suddenly a wave began to form. As the wave began to build and pull water from beneath us, I yelled at Connor to get ready! We both began to kick and paddle our boards as the wave grew stronger. As the wave began to break and the water began to roll, the force took us to the gulf floor! Not the ride I was expecting or the experience I wanted.
We continued to try our luck at riding the surf, but to no avail. We just couldn't get our boards to stay on top of the wave. We would either get thrown under the water or miss the wave's break. So we did what any normal, red-blooded, tired and worn-out person would do....we went to the shore and sat under the umbrella for a while. We drank a few bottles of water, chatted for a bit and went back out for round two. However, round two was a repeat of round one; as well as round three and four, but I was not going home without the experience of surfing.
I spotted a guy who was being very successful with his surfing. I asked him what his secret was to riding the waves. His advice was very elementary and easy to follow. He said, "All you have to do is be patient and as you see the wave forming, paddle the board with your feet. As the wave begins to break, push the board down to your stomach and let the wave do the work."
So that's exactly what I did. The next wave that appeared to be strong enough to carry my 200 and none-of-your-business pound body, I began to put his advice into action. I started kicking my feet and just as the wave began to break, I lowered the board just below my chest and began to ride the wave. I rode that wave all the way in...it was a great feeling of accomplishment!
As I mentioned earlier, I wasn't going home without surfing. I was determined to ride the waves, but in order to accomplish the goal I set for myself, I had to follow a few simple rules.
1. Be patient: Sometimes waiting for the timing to be right is part of the process. If we're not patient we can end up rolling around in something we didn't expect.
2. Choose wisely: Making the right choice on waves is vital to surfing success. If you choose one that's too small you won't go very far. Same applies to life. You have to ask yourself two questions: How far do I want to go, and is this process going to get me there?
3. Ask for help: I would have been out there for days trying to ride the waves. Even though determination is a good thing, sometimes you have to stop and ask questions. Asking for help isn't a sign of weakness. Not asking can be a sign of stupidity. Remember, there are others around you who have "been there, done that". All you have to do is ask what the secret is to their success.
Once I learned the lessons involved in surfing, I was able to enjoy riding the waves.
Just my thoughts on a page.
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